Hendrick’s; Lunar Gin

It was August 1999, deep in the sweltering summer sunshine of the South of France.

Aged 13, I was on a family holiday in the Dordogne – happy to be there but (like every teenager), happy to be anywhere other than school on one of those 6 week summer breaks that seemed to last a life time. And better still, we had travelled with some of our very best family friends ‘The Upex’s’, who over many years had become our partners in crime on the ski slopes & sun beds alike (tell me you’re middle class without telling me you’re middle class!).

Myself, my brother & our pal Sally were thick as thieves. The trip had been full of moments that have stood the test of time, and remain as vivid today as if over two decades haven’t passed. From Paco, the dog next door, and the ‘ferret lady’ (don’t ask…) to sneaking in to the neighbouring tennis courts and trying to get served Kronenbourg from the local Tabac (unsuccessfully I might add, given that I occasionally still get ID’d at the age of 38). But it was 11th August that was perhaps most special of all.

But why, you might ask? Because it is the birthday of retro WWF Wrestling hero Hulk Hogan? No. That’s just a happy coincidence. In actual fact, 11th August was the date of the last total solar eclipse of the 20th century – an event that captured the hearts and minds of millions of people around the world.

My parents, and their drinking buddies ‘Geoff & Jane’ (it’s important to stay…hydrated), had decided to get in to the party spirit by initiating an impromptu ‘wine tasting’ afternoon. This involved copious bottles of wine, sourced from the local vineyards, note pads & pens and a heavily neglected spittoon. What had started out as a professional endeavour, with pensive thought and passionate debate over the scoring, inevitably descended in to silliness. Over the course of a few hours the ‘trendy wine bar’ vibes ended more as ‘Yates Wine Lodge’, where each wine almost inexplicably received top marks of 10 out of 10. Funny that…

But between the sips, and with ‘Stand by me’ blaring from the speakers (owing to the loose link of the lyrics to the moon), we prepared ourselves for the event of the century. Geoff came from an Art & Design background, and had seen an interesting piece on BBC news on the best (and safest) ways to experience the eclipse – the theory was that you could pierce a hole in a piece of card, and watch the shadow of the eclipse appear on the white background of a T-shirt draped over a chair. I know…sounds mental doesn’t it. I’ll always try to offer constructive feedback on these kind of things – and a definite ‘Pro’ was that no retinas were melted that day. However, the major ‘Con’ (in my humble opinion at least) was that it didn’t bloody work! Instead of watching the eclipse, three disappointed teenagers watched as a piece of card blocked their views of a perfectly good T-shirt.

In turn we all moved on. The wines continued to receive critical acclaim. The months continued to roll on, in to the new millennium. I continued to not get served Kronenburg, until I had an official ID to prove I was of drinking age. But it’s a holiday I’ll always remember – the laughter will stay with me forever.

Hendrick’s Gin; Full Moon

On face value then, my move in to Hendrick’s gin as the subject matter of this latest review could appear a little stilted & clumsy. I mean, what on earth does any of this have to do with the moon?! All in good time my juniper soak compadres – I (kind of) know what I’m doing.

Anyway – yeah, yeah, yeah. Hendrick’s. They’re a ‘big brand’. You see them in the supermarkets right? It’s the gin of choice for the ‘aficionados’ who think that their party piece of pairing your G&T with a cucumber garnish is both controversial and original. It is neither.

Now. I’m aware that, that sounds scathing, especially as an introductory opening to a brand overview. So don’t get me wrong, I’m a big fan of Hendrick’s! I always have their gin as a staple on my back bar. But there is a lot more to this brand than a sleek and sexy black bottle and iconic font.

Hendrick’s combines a blend of eleven botanicals, including their signature infusions of cucumber and rose petals for which they have become synonymous, to create a distinctive and unique gin.

Crafted in Scotland since 1999, in its distillery on the south Ayrshire coast in Girvan, Hendrick’s is also unique in that it is the only gin that blends spirits from both Carterhead and Bennett Copper Pot Stills – a method that they credit with producing the smooth and characterful gin that we know & admire.

The stills themselves date back to 1948 & 1860 respectively, adding a rare quality to the gin that others can only hope to imitate (owing to the fact that there aren’t all that many of these antiques knocking about). To top it all, each run only produces 500 litres at a time; for such a large name in the industry, that is perhaps a surprisingly small yield. Inefficient? Yes. Effective and worth the effort? Absolutely.

Where the Bennet Copper Pot takes charge of steeping the 11 botanicals, to extract their oils, the Carterhead steams an identical batch of dried botanicals. When blended, to a top secret ratio, the result is uniquely Hendrick’s.

And the key jewel in the Hendrick’s crown is surely their Master Distiller, Lesley Gracie. In 2018, Gracie was awarded ‘Gin Distiller of the Year’ by the World Gin Awards in recognition of her work. Indeed, it is her original recipe & distillation process that underpins the spirit to this very day. Sure, she has more hands on deck to help these days – but it is her watchful eye that ensures quality & consistency in every bottle.

Lunar Gin; Half Moon

Now. I could sit here and continue to talk to you about the flagship staple that you’ve doubtless seen/tried/own. But where would the fun be in that?

In the true unique spirit of Hendrick’s, I instead turn our attention to the teams limited edition Lunar Gin – which happily links back to the blog opening (you can now let out that sigh of relief).

But what’s so different about the Lunar offering I hear you exclaim? Fair question.

In their own words “HENDRICK’S LUNAR is a delightfully smooth and alluring gin that is rich with night blooming floral essence, offering a delicate balance of warm baked spices, and finished with a crisp burst of citrus…It’s for slow sipping, fanciful conversations and other contemplative pleasures and blends perfectly in mysterious, smoky gin cocktails.”

Well, all of that may be so, but the proof is in the drinking. It was time for a little less fanciful conversation and a little more sipping. Harnessing the true spirit that my parents instilled in me back in France 1999, it was time for a tasting… only this time by moonlight & no ‘card tricks’ required.

Lunar Gin to taste

There is a heavily citrus forward and indulgent booziness to the aroma, with an elegant perfumed character on the nostrils. There’s a reassuring warmth to the neat spirit, with a sense of white pepper heat lingering on each approach.

But what I really enjoy is that the gin remains eminently classic; whilst the aesthetic of the bottle, and alluring imagery of the label, might conjure thoughts of nighttime splendour, the weight of juniper keeps you routed firmly in familiar ground.

To taste, and the citrus profile certainly makes itself known. Sharp, yet candied, peels hit the palate first – it’s supported by herbal and floral characteristics that help to give a bright and vivid appeal. The initial citrus hit is followed by an increasingly warming hit of spice. I’ll be the first to admit that I am not a fan of spiced gins, but this certainly doesn’t encroach on a territory I don’t call home. On the contrary, the poise and balance of the earthy spiced inclusions harmonise well with the juniper and citrus.

In a Martini, it’s…fine. It’s not pulling up trees by any stretch, but equally it’s not offensive. But you’re unlikely to be propping up the bar and asking for seconds. The same is true of this gin in a Negroni; it simply becomes lost amongst the louder noise of the vermouth and bitters, unable to truly impart any real wisdom.

But all of that is kind of irrelevant. The 43.4% ABV alone tells me that this isn’t a gin that was really designed with these cocktails in mind – and it’s of little consequence when you see it at work in a G&T, where it does get the opportunity to shine. The addition of the tonic mixer does little to quell the profile of the gin that’s experienced in its neatest form. If anything, the bright notes of the citrus become brighter, with an elevated sense of sweetness across the finish.

Hendrick’s Lunar Gin; Total eclipse

I just have one minor gripe. I’m just not sure I’d choose this over the flagship Hendrick’s gin…

If I were presented with a choice of the classic Hendrick’s or the Lunar gin, on a hot summers day, I’m fairly convinced that I’d would pick the classic edition 9 times out of 10. And yes, I’d even go with a cliche cucumber garnish n’all. Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing wrong with the Lunar at all – in fact, as I hope the review demonstrates, I positively enjoyed it. But when I see the ‘Hendrick’s’ name, I want the iconic flavour profile to match. And the Lunar gin, whilst fully by design, doesn’t meet that brief.

But if my parents taught me nothing else, it is that if you drink enough of anything (responsibly) then soon enough the scores all begin to merge in to a sea of excellent by the end. And with that, I think I’ll reach for a refill.

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In loving memory of Jane Upex – I’ll always remember the summer holidays in France, the constant laughter and the G&T’s!

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